Tasto power iphone 6 non funzionante

In questo modo farai ritorno alla pagina relativa al tuo ID Apple. Scorri l'elenco apparso verso il basso per individuare e selezionare la voce Generali. Scorri il menu apparso verso il basso per selezionare l'opzione Ripristina. Scegli l'opzione Inizializza contenuto e impostazioni. Inserisci il codice di accesso. Se richiesto, fornisci anche il codice relativo alle "Restrizioni".

Premi il pulsante Inizializza iPhone. In questo modo tutti i dati contenuti nel dispositivo verranno cancellati, unitamente a tutte le impostazioni personalizzate. Segui le istruzioni che appaiono sullo schermo al termine dell'inizializzazione per eseguire la configurazione iniziale del dispositivo.

Se vuoi caricare sul dispositivo tutti i tuoi contenuti multimediali, dati personali e applicazioni acquistate e installate, scegli di ripristinare un backup. Esegui il backup del dispositivo se possibile. Se sei in grado di usare l'iPhone, effettua il backup dei dati, in modo da poterli ripristinare al termine dell'inizializzazione del dispositivo. Collega l'iPhone al computer e apri il programma di iTunes se non viene eseguito automaticamente. Clicca l'icona a forma di iPhone apparsa nella parte superiore della finestra di iTunes.

In questo caso esiste una procedure che rende di nuovo funzionante il tasto HOME vale solo per il tasto Home questa volta , si tratta della ricalibrazione. Aggiungi ai preferiti Leggi dopo. Claudia Ingrassia editor mobile Twitter Linkedin Facebook. Vuoi ancora più Ninja Power?

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La tua privacy è al sicuro. Accedi a Ninja Marketing per salvare questo articolo tra i tuoi preferiti! Nome utente Password Resta collegato. Can you tell what this is for? Tab broke pretty easy and a hair dryer did nothing. I put a plat in the microwave with a large bowl of water under it.

Heated it till I could barely touch it and then laid the phone on it. Make sure the plate is big enough for the whole back of the phone to touch it. Leave it on a few minutes and the phone should get pretty hot but still touchable.

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Patience is a huge virtue on this step. I can't get the new battery connector to snap into the port. This doesn't seem to be mentioned as a problem step for other people. When you install the new battery, if the compartment is a bit larger than the battery, push the battery over to the side wall and leave about 1mm space between the battery and the electronics. This will give you more room to place the battery cable with the proper twist. By the way, it's easier if you first plug the battery connector into the board on the phone and THEN position the battery into the battery compartment.

This way you'll have the greatest degree of freedom to position the connector for proper insertion. Have followed all instructions and was careful and I think everything is intact but on trying to charge am not getting anything. Will try leaving it plugged in to charge overnight as per someone's suggestion above. Usare la punta di uno spudger per fare leva sul cavo connettore e portarlo su sulla logic board, un poco sopra allo speaker. The dock connector flex cable can be slid under the board wihtout removing it.

I just did it myself without a problem. Agreed - steps can be skipped if one is just replacing the speaker. I completed mine today with these very helpful pictures and descriptions. I also think you can probably skip removing the battery altogether - I removed it just to be safe, but do not think it was necessary.

That said, removing the battery gave me more room to work with or seemed to, at least. For replacing the dock connector, there is no need to remove the logic board! Just skip the corresponding steps. Removing the battery or disconnecting the display is strictly speaking not necessary either. However, I would strongly recommend to do so for convenience. This tear down and these comments were my lesson to read ahead here. My phone has been in pieces because I do not have the finger to get the antenna cable back on.

Rimuovere le due seguenti viti che fissano il supporto superiore della logic board al corpo del cellulare. State attenti a non rompere la piccola linguetta di messa a terra vicino alla parte posteriore della telecamera. Nei modelli piu moderni il supporto potrebbe essere fissato alla telecamera e non poter essere estratto completamente.

Come spegnere iPhone senza tasto

Se debe retirar con cuidado , para luego utilizar la misma platina en la nueva camara de reemplazo. Je fajn, ze tu pises vo svojej reci, tak isto ako ja. Rozumiet ti bude presne tolko ludi co mne, tak nabuduce tu pis v anglictine a neotravuj ostatnych svojou domorodou skomoleninou. When I put everything back together my bottom mic stopped working.

Could this top logic board bracket not being attached anymore cause this? What if I broke the tiny grounding tab next to the rear camera that he warns against? Is it possible to find this replacement part? Second Connector - From the top right corner of the connector lift straight up. It will go to the left. Third Connector - Hold the second cable back and again lift from the top right corner of the connector and it will go to the left.

I wonder what the connector is for…. Yes you have to remove battery first otherwise it may cause a short circuit sometimes. What exactly do wedisconnect? This is not adishnetwork? I have a problem. What is this used for? I broke the one at the left because the screw was impossible to remove I was unable to remove the screw on the left. Consequently, I ended up tearing the cable right where it is attached to the left screw, but as far as I can tell, everything on my iPhone is working properly.

Whey did we take these screws out? Removal doesn't seem a pre-requisite for any other steps. In trying to put the phone back together, I can't get these screws back in - they don't seem to grab. But I also have this miscellaneous part that I don't know where it came from - it has one hole in the center and looks a bit like a wing. Anyone know what this is and whether it has anything to do with these two screws?

OK, I got the screws back in, but it still looks like an unnecessary step. And I still have that little wing thing. But the phone is working and charging! These screws secure some thin cables with contacts on the end of the logic board. Some here states they are hard to remove. I used one of my Philips screw drivers. I'm not sure what type, but it removed the two screws easily. In the years that have past, doing repairs, I have got a lot of different equipments. Just be sure to use exatly the right screwdriver. Rimuovi la singola vite Phillips da 1,2 mm rimasta nel supporto della zona centrale della logic board.

When putting this back together, you may find this bracket gets in the way of clipping the battery connection back on. If you do, losses the screw and swivel the bracket out of the way. When I did this the ribbon cable beneath the plate stuck to the plate, and this guide makes no mention of this cable at all. Be aware that it has to be re routed and re attached to its positions on the logic board or your phone will not work, as i looks like some kind of RF cable.

That cable is for sim networks. You have to remove very carefully. Usare uno spudger per fare leva sul cavo connettore del Lightning connector e staccarlo dalla logic board. Premere il bottone per liberare la carta SIM sul lato destro dell'iPhone con il "SIM card eject tool" o con una spilla da balia piegata. Queste viti sono dello stesso tipo di quelle Phillips, ma noi vi consigliamo di usare un cacciavite a punta piatta da 2.

iPhone: tasti rotti e/o inaccessibili? Ecco qualche rimedio

Assicurati di rimettere questo distanziale filettato nella sua posizione originale nella parte superiore della logic board. Un elemento magnetizzato potrebbe interferire con la bussola elettronica. Suggerimento per il riassemblaggio: Before continuing to step 24, ifixit forgot one step!! Using a flathead driver for the standoff screws is actually very irritating. Funny thing, if you just use the pentalobe driver you used to take out the first two screws for the iphone, the standoff screws come out very easily I think this was by design, since the pentalobe driver fits snuggly into the opening of the standoff screw.

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It is not equivalent to the remaining two 2. It should be kept apart and put back in its exact place. If you happen to mix it with the other 2 screws, it is easy to differentiate: The center hole is threaded to receive other screws. If you look at the previous steps, you can see the screws that screw into each one.

Without that tool, the best alternate is a flathead. I would avoid using a bit in the center hole, since it may damage the threads. The flate heat second from the biggest fit in the slots good enough. The little bastards are on there tight!! I used a 2mm flathead, but I had to be very carefully because it may be easy to slip.

A little sad that I don't have any flathead tips and missed that they were needed! Anyhow to make this standout even more? I have the iOpener with a decent assortment of tips so my overconfidence made me miss the requirement.

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My spudger tip broke-off inside one of the standoff screws, so after trying a few things to clear the plastic tip manually, I just took the standoff screw out and held it up to open flame. The tiny bit of plastic burned-away in no time at all and after cooling the standoff screw down, it worked just fine again: Se resta sul pannello posteriore rimuovetelo con delle pinzette e rimontatelo sulla flash unit.

I second John Mihalko's comment - when reassembling the logic board in the case, make sure the button assembly cable from step 18 is not under the logic board. It was a bit annoying to almost get to the end of this repair only to find I had to go back and take the logic board back out again. I've had to open this phone twice at distant intervals and I made this mistake both times. This should be included as a note, because it seems to be a common error. I thought I already remove it but it turns out I only remove the top screw.

There's actually "another" screw in the "same" position, which is in disguise because it looks like a hole. It needs a rather small flat screw head to remove. I kept pulling the circuit board out but couldn't because I didn't know it. I didn't bother taking the antenna cable off the board. I just had it flexed back and worked on removing the camera with the cable still on. It's only two screws and one connector to swap the camera out. Found it a little fiddly disconnecting it so if you have trouble just leave it on and work with the slack.

I believe there are three washers on the case side of the logic board that can come loose at this point. A note when putting it back together make sure that the antenna cable does not get stuck under the logic board. Guys, there is no need to remove the logic board at all. Just disconnect battery, remove loudspeaker, and remove charge port. Usa la punta della spatola per rimuovere il paraurti di gomma dal basso della pulsante dell'alimentazione.