Tasto power iphone 6 rotto

A precision screwdriver set is a wise investment for doing any of this work. I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. The kit provided with the replacement Battery of iPhone 6s does not include the right bits to remove the three 1,2mm screws! I had to remove it without removing the display.

I too experienced a problem with the size of the screwdriver here supplied in the iFixit kit. My phone also had a 5th screw right in the center of the plate - another 1. I removed and replace it without problems. These instructions are for the 6s. It has been invaluable and the set includes enough screws that I have been able to cover all that have been dropped and lost for 3 i-Phones now. Using a magnetic mat has also limited my screw loss considerably! The ifixit kit supplied screwdriver for the display cable bracket did NOT fit.

Leaving the screen attached and then removing and replacing the battery.

Note carefully the order that they are removed. My new display had them in the WRONG order and I spent about 2 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong until I compared the new screen with the old screen and saw that they were in wrong sequence. Fortunately they were relatively easy to fold out of the way and put them in the right order.

After that they popped right into place. I pop up these screen connectors using my fingernail. After doing a lot of repairs, this is the easiest and fastest way to get them loose. Quando devi riattaccare il cavo del digitizer, non premere nel centro del connettore. Premi da un lato e poi dall'altro. Recolor that "pinned" note about not pushing on the center in "RED" if you get a chance. Yes--if you, like me, could not get the digitizer connector to seat, you've probably got confused on the reassembly order.

I had to remove the EMI shield seven screws , and reinstall it ON TOP of the big flap tongue that comes with the new digitizer, rearranging the order of the connector tails. Note that one of the connectors is a bit shorter than the other, and one of the receptacles on the iPhone is shorter as well. Make sure you're laying down the tails and connectors in the right order when you reassemble!

The display data cable--sideways to the others, toward the outer edge, goes first. Then the longer connector, and finally the shorter one. When they're seated, they're seated, and you'll be sure of it. I notice there are 3 flex cables, does this disassembly guide apply to the verizon version of iPhone 6s? I don't want to order the wrong digitizer screen for my new and improved iPhone that i somehow managed to crack the screen on. There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process, at least on my phone. The replacement screen also had 4, so no problem.

I am having a hard time reattaching the LCD cable. Is it possible I bent the connectors? Or possibly the gaskets around it are interfering? I neglected to detach the battery before taking this step and upon reassembly I have no display. What might be my next step to repair. If you power on your phone and you can see an image on the display by shining a bright light on it, your backlight circuit is toast.

This is a common repair and very fixable, but requires microsoldering equipment and expertise. My screen replacement only comes with two flex cables but all of the videos are showing three. It is not working to connect the flex cables to the connectors. The third flex cable would be for the front-facing camera, sensors, etc. The instructions are over here. In fase di rimontaggio, fermati qui se vuoi sostituire l'adesivo attorno ai bordi del display.

If you're replacing the adhesive, be sure to check the two tabs on the display that receive the pentalobe screws before setting the display on the new adhesive.

The tabs on my display were bent inward slightly—just out of reach of the pentalobe screws. I didn't bend these out before setting the display and was forced to re-open the display to adjust them, ruining my carefully placed adhesive. There is no need to remove camera or the logic board if all you want to do is replace the lightning assembly. Leaving things in place will save you a number of steps. Proceed directly to Step 35 and save yourself all this work. Also read comments on step 37 as others have also pointed out that there is no need to pull logic board and you can skip those steps mentioned.

Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board. Might be worth double-checking the replacement screen works before applying the adhesive at all. When reconnecting to the logic board, reverse the order, so display first, then digitizer and finally camera. The front pannel slides into small edge of the backchannel. So start at the top when you put front and back together. When reinstalling, I had to experiment with how tightly to turn the screws, I first turned them all the way in but the home button wouldn't 'click' at all then, so I loosened the left most screw a touch and now it clicks and feel perfect.

Not sure which screw is technically the best to adjust.

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Manca la descrizione delle plastiche da recuperare per essere riportate sul nuovo display. After trying multiple screw settings I came to a somewhat unorthodox solution. I placed a piece of folded paper under the left corner of the metal cover. Solleva il bordo inferiore della staffa del pulsante home fino a liberare il piccolo piolino sul lato destro. Usa uno spudger per staccare il connettore del pulsante home sollevandolo dal suo zoccolino sul retro del pannello display.

Make sure you're not heating it before you've popped the connector from its socket or else the socket might come loose. Place 1 on the socket and use the other to disconnect the connector. When I did this step, the home button connecter tore right off at the bend in the thin ribbon. Not sure how - I got through other somewhat delicate steps in this project without damaging anything.

Premi delicatamente sul pulsante home dal lato anteriore del display per separare lentamente dal pannello anteriore la guarnizione in gomma del pulsante home. Esercita una pressione costante e dai tempo alla parte di staccarsi. What happens if the gasket ends up as toast? I had to re-assemble without and hope for the best. I think its main function is to keep moisture and dust out. I heated mine with a hair dryer.

The remaining steps remove parts that are included with the replacement assembly. Altre 75 persone hanno completato questa guida. I'm currently on ios 9. It still works, but it bothers me that it's cracked, however I don't really want to brick my phone in the process. Do I need to be on 9. Or does it not matter anymore? I'm kinda lost as far as that goes. Any help is greatly appreciated. Funny thing, if you just use the pentalobe driver you used to take out the first two screws for the iphone, the standoff screws come out very easily I think this was by design, since the pentalobe driver fits snuggly into the opening of the standoff screw.

It is not equivalent to the remaining two 2. It should be kept apart and put back in its exact place. If you happen to mix it with the other 2 screws, it is easy to differentiate: The center hole is threaded to receive other screws. If you look at the previous steps, you can see the screws that screw into each one. Without that tool, the best alternate is a flathead. I would avoid using a bit in the center hole, since it may damage the threads.

The flate heat second from the biggest fit in the slots good enough. The little bastards are on there tight!! I used a 2mm flathead, but I had to be very carefully because it may be easy to slip. A little sad that I don't have any flathead tips and missed that they were needed! Anyhow to make this standout even more? I have the iOpener with a decent assortment of tips so my overconfidence made me miss the requirement. My spudger tip broke-off inside one of the standoff screws, so after trying a few things to clear the plastic tip manually, I just took the standoff screw out and held it up to open flame.

The tiny bit of plastic burned-away in no time at all and after cooling the standoff screw down, it worked just fine again: Se resta sul pannello posteriore rimuovetelo con delle pinzette e rimontatelo sulla flash unit.

I second John Mihalko's comment - when reassembling the logic board in the case, make sure the button assembly cable from step 18 is not under the logic board. It was a bit annoying to almost get to the end of this repair only to find I had to go back and take the logic board back out again. I've had to open this phone twice at distant intervals and I made this mistake both times. This should be included as a note, because it seems to be a common error.

I thought I already remove it but it turns out I only remove the top screw. There's actually "another" screw in the "same" position, which is in disguise because it looks like a hole. It needs a rather small flat screw head to remove. I kept pulling the circuit board out but couldn't because I didn't know it. I didn't bother taking the antenna cable off the board. I just had it flexed back and worked on removing the camera with the cable still on.

It's only two screws and one connector to swap the camera out. Found it a little fiddly disconnecting it so if you have trouble just leave it on and work with the slack. I believe there are three washers on the case side of the logic board that can come loose at this point. A note when putting it back together make sure that the antenna cable does not get stuck under the logic board.

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Guys, there is no need to remove the logic board at all. Just disconnect battery, remove loudspeaker, and remove charge port. Usa la punta della spatola per rimuovere il paraurti di gomma dal basso della pulsante dell'alimentazione. You do not need to remove the rubber bumper.

I did the replacement without removing it and that works just fine. I agree with Johnny on Step 31, removing the rubber bumper is pointless as once its removed you end up with a floating rubber bumper piece OR to replace it. The rubber bumper pretty sure its just foam anyways is fine staying attached as it is. Other than that the guide is spot on! Rimuovi i seguenti viti del supporto metallico tra il flash posteriore e la finestra della camera:. If you only take off the top screw on this bracket and just loosen the bottom one you can spin the bracket out of the way.

This helps you when putting everything back together. YOu don't have to align this little bracket while holding a screw and screwdriver. I had an interesting discovery when I got to this step. Mine was more of a circle. It's like it was stripped already. My magnifying glass is not great so I couldn't see if it was stripped or if a different bit was needed. I ended up leaving it in and just swinging the bracket to the right just as the5dunhams suggested.

Thankfully it worked and I was able to continue on my 4. It's weird using my power button since it's been broken for a couple years. Usa la punta della spatola per svoltare il supporto metallico chi tiene la pulsante dell'alimentazione dalla testa della faccia posteriore. Premi la pulsante dell'alimentazione nella faccia posteriore dal'esterno del telefono con la punta della spatola. There's a metal 'hinge' on one side of the power button.

When reseating this has to face upwards side of the screen else it wont click. The power button is glued on the right side to a piece of foam. Re-assembly should be easier and quicker this way. I found these instructions on the internet, and it worked for me - many replacement housing seem to lack that pin. I accidentally got the black power button instead of the white one for my white iPhone 5 and the button doesn't click like it should. I wonder if there is a difference in size of the white button vs.

I only replaced the button, but I may replace the cable to see if that makes a difference. The button now is not working as well as it did first. I replaced the cable with the power switch AND put everything in a replacement housing. My power button clicks and works fine, but it a bit loose, so as if there is about 0. In the original state from the factory, the button sits tight. I successfully replace my power button, and it worked fine for about two weeks, but the responsiveness of the button has gradually become worse. I'm wondering if this means I need to also replace the cable.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Altre persone hanno completato questa guida. Tobias Isakeit ci sta aiutando ad aggiustare il mondo! Great step by step guide. I did it twice today and my iphones 5 are working great. In my opinion there is no need to remove the battery. It is how I did it without any complication. This is an extremely helpful guide. I was quite surprised when I opened my iPhone 5 that there were 2 screws lose inside it. I bought it new and have never taken it apart or had it serviced before. Never heard any rattling either so who knows. I noticed that needed the smaller Phillips head screwdriver than the one recommended in the guide.

The only advice I can give is to take your time and go slow slow slow. There were many small heart attacks when prying the screen off and taking out the battery. I had to go considerably farther in taking apart the phone. My lock button was attached to the volume, mute, and vibrate as one band. I was skeptical that replacing the tiny power button alone would fix my issue of turning my phone on and off and putting it to sleep, but it did the trick to my great surprise. You'll need a steady hand ie.

Thanks iFixit for a great guide! My volume and silent toggle switch works great but I'm having issues only with the power button. Does this mean I just have to replace the power button or do I have to replace the flex cable also? This is the best on the net but the video leaves some steps out.

It would be good to tell people to refer to the steps below. I assumed everything below the video was ads so I didn't look there unit I realized something was missing. After watching this video I ordered my parts and planned to do this. Once I got the phone apart i realized that my button problem where it works but you have to push hard wasn't going to get fixed by this video.

The button that this video replaces is just a mechanical block. For me, I just cleaned everything the best I could don't forget to clean the camera and lens over the camera while you are in there and put it back together. Everything works great now. No new parts were needed - just a cleaning.

Somebody had some problem with audio jack after this guide? Because mine apparently stop to work after the sostitution!! And I don't understand why.. I didn't touch any other part, infact the charging component and the speaker are working good! I followed the guide exactly, including putting the logic board in an anti static bag.

Afterwards the iPhone 5 wont turn on, just a blank screen. When connected to power it makes a loud beep, and pauses for several seconds and beeps again etc. I back tracked and did it all over double checking every connector. Checking the display connector. What could it be? I had that too. You need to make sure to turn off your power when doing any repairs. After a week I checked back and my phone started working again. I repaired the power switch problem by just cleaning it. I did not remove the battery or camera, but did remove the small metal bracket just below the power button.

I carefully used a contact cleaner spray and small knife to clean out some dust. I didn't turn my iPhone off before taking the display assembly apart. How will this affect my iphone? I replaced the button just fine, and I also did not need to remove the battery. I noticed though that there is a little pin that holds the button back that was also broken on my phone or fell out that I had to get on ebay.



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I'm in the process of changing the rear housing for my 5s, and I've come to a problem with the lock button. Can i take it out of the previous housing, or can i buy a new one for the new housing? What should i do? Try not to bend the pin. Pin was then straightened slightly with flat pliers and re-slotted into the new case, keeping the 'fat' end at the top it will need forcing home slightly.

Took a few goes to get the clip back but wake button clicked fine. I also replaced the volume control buttons, specifically because the volume down button didn't work, but the problem persists even with the new volume control buttons and new cable assembly. I suspect that it's not a hardware problem, but I haven't found a software fix. Tried everything I could think of, even a full factory restore, still doesn't work.

As a workaround I use the system setting that displays a moveable touch control that allows volume to be changed:. This displays a finger-tip dot that you can move anywhere on screen. Touching the dot displays 6 icons, touch "Device" then there are more icons including "Volume Up" and "Volume Down", which do work. Of course this problem first appeared soon after my AppleCare expired. Followed this and it worked for the most part but now my phone does not charge. If I insert the power cord while the phone is turned off it will boot the phone up but does not actually charge the phone.

What could have gone wrong? The cable isn't an official apple one but was working before the repair. Did you resolve the problem you were having with battery not charging? I am having the same problem, everything worked fine after the replacement and just found out that the battery won't charge the lightning connector when connected does not get detected.

There is a plastic cord which runs around the glass, half of which remained with the glass, and the other half remaining on the remaining part of the display assembly. I'm not sure what I did wrong for this to happen.

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But I can't put the phone back together. In any case, the power button now does not click. And floating bits of what I assume used to be a button a small silver bubble, and a black dot on a piece of clear plastic came out when I removed the the power button. I tried fixing the power button, but it doesn't click. It sits very soft on the top I can't figure out anything missing.

When i reassembled and plugged in, phone just keeps flashing apple symbol but doesn't turn on at all. This could be due to the fact that power button is not clicking I thought of replacing the whole ribbon, ordered and tried installing. I had thought that circuit button that connects to the power button had worn out, so decided to change so that power button would click.

It doesn't click now. I am stuck, now I am thinking of resorting to some fix by the pros I wouldn't suggest anyone trying this. The whole thing needs to be replaced, since the flex cable includes volume and the rocker components. This is a poor guide because it is misleading. The steps are well done, but you need to include the steps for removing the volume flex parts as well.

I had to remove the power cable assembly as well, but by that time, it was pretty obvious which extra screws to remove. The detailed pictures helped me get it right. Worth noting that sometimes the power button can start failing for a reason that has nothing to do with the button or its cable. Mine started failing because the battery was puffing up, pulling the button connections further and further apart. Once you've got the phone open it's easy to see that the battery is pillowy. Before you open the phone you may see a vertical faint bluish stripe down the screen, or note that the case looks very slightly sprung.

The solution to all these problems is to replace the battery. Before you buy parts you don't need, see if your battery is the culprit. I tried this last night and it worked, brilliant i thought then realised that i have lost my carrier and signal has gone on the phone, i have tried all aspects of the internet, turn off, take sim card out and reboot network, still nothing. Done successfully for two phones.

The standoff screws were a pain. To remove them I used a sharp knife placed flat into the groove on the screw and unscrewed a quarter turn at a time. The iFixit screwdrivers are not fine enough for that. To reassemble, I held the standoff screws in position with tweezers and rotated the phone underneath it. I used several guides simultaneously as there are many details to check and double check.

Together we can do anything! We have a chance to guarantee our right to repair electronic equipment—like smartphones, computers, and even farm equipment. This is a once-in-a-generation chance to protect local repair jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed out by manufacturers.